Porsche Sound System
Installation and
Setup Tips:
- Porsche installation tips -
(Porsche, Porsche 911, and 911 are all trademarks of Porsche Cars North America, no affiliation or endorsement is intended)
(Click on links in left hand pane to view pictures of "the installation process")
HEAD UNITS:
The head unit is the key, or the main source of music for your system. If you are content with audio cassettes, you can purchase a quality tape deck with features like removable face plate, Dolby noise reduction, music search, etc. If you don't intend to purchase an amplifier and only need to power 2 or 4 small to medium sized speakers, a high power head unit may be the logical choice. Look for at least 35 watts x 4 channels (this is actually a "maximum" power rating; the continuous, or "rms" power will probably be half of the "advertised" power). This will drive a couple of door speakers and/or rear deck speakers (or any combination) and this will work exceptionally well with aftermarket speakers, which are usually much more efficient than original factory equipment. If you want to add a CD changer to hold 10 or more CD's either now or sometime down the road, then opt for a head unit with CD changer controls. For the clean, accurate sound of CD's with the convenience of an in-dash model CD player, there are also choices such as high power, CD changer controls, etc. Whether or not you choose a high power deck, you can always add an amplifier later for additional speakers, such as subwoofers, or to provide more reserve power for your main speakers.
2. CROSSOVERS:
Nowadays the crossovers are usually built right into the amplifiers. This allows you to send only "high" signals to your tweeters, only the middle, or midrange, frequencies to your midrange speakers, and only the low frequencies to your woofers. In such a system, each speaker is reproducing only the frequencies that each was designed for.
There are other options, including a separate electronic crossover, with adjustable frequencies and adjustable gain levels for each pair of speakers.
A passive crossover is simply a coil or capacitor-type filter device between
your amp and speakers that "blocks" certain frequencies; this will cost power
from your amplifier(s). There are also "F-Mod" type crossovers. These are small
capsules that plug directly into your RCA patch cords before the amplifiers and block
selected frequencies. They are better than passive crossovers placed at the speaker end of
the system, but still not quite as accurate and clean as an electronic crossover.
3. AMPLIFIERS
:There are many specifications to look at when purchasing amplifiers, but one basic indicator of sound quality is to to check the THD, total harmonic distortion rating at the amplifier's rated power, such as 50 watts x 4 channels with .05% THD. THD of .05% is a good rating; the lower this number, the better. Also, look for a signal-to noise ratio of 100dB or better
. . .Good quality amps are usually about 100 or 105dB or even better. Allow for at least 50 watts each for your subwoofers, and at least 15-20 watts for smaller speakers. Less power is usually required for the forward-most speakers since they are close to the listener (and more efficient speakers always require less power.) Remember that it's safer to drive speakers with more clean power than to drive them with insufficient amounts of power at high volume levels with audible distortion. When you can hear the static-like sound of distortion, you're more than likely causing damage to your speakers.
4. SPEAKERS
:Choose the largest drivers that you can fit into the factory openings. For high frequencies, concentrate on installing speakers that will provide these more "directional" sounds in the front of your vehicle. Good quality 2-way door speakers will provide plenty of mids and highs, and a subwoofer or mid-bass system can be installed wherever space permits - the rear deck, rear floor, even trunk. The bass notes are non-directional, and low frequencies, especially those below 150 or 120 Hz, will not reveal their source directly; that is, the bass notes will sound as if they are emanating from the smaller speakers along with the mids and highs. Whenever possible, use heavy gauge speaker cable between your amps and speakers. This allows excellent flow of the current, or electrical signals traveling to your speakers, in the same manner that a large diameter water pipe allows large quantities of water to flow with minimal resistance
. . .Also, for the best connections at your speakers, solder the speaker wire CAREFULLY to the speaker terminals. This will prevent a compromise of the current flow by loose fitting connectors on your speakers. (This provides an excellent solid connection at your speakers and will also lessen the chances of the connectors falling off the terminals.) Also, ensure that the area behind the speaker is isolated from the front of the speaker; otherwise you will experience "cancellation" - where the waves emanating from the back of the cone will actually "cancel" out the waves in front of the cone. This limits the output of the speaker dramatically, and sounds "muddy" or "tinny". When speakers are mounted without an actual enclosure (such as with door mounted speakers),acoustic baffles can assist in making the speaker more "enclosed", resulting in tighter, more accurate sound, and they can protect speakers from water and other elements.
5. AMPLIFIER INSTALLATION:
Amps can be installed in your trunk area, which may compromise the cargo space and/or they can be located under the seats, among other locations. All positive power connections should be separately wired directly to the battery, and fused as close to the battery as possible. Make sure that any ground connections are firmly attached to a metal part of the car's chassis. Scrape away any paint first, and use a star washer between the connector and the chassis for a good, solid connection. Run heavy gauge wire to ensure that the amplifier receives all of the power it needs for both positive and negative power connections. Use at least 10 gauge wire,and ideally 8 gauge wire for both positive and ground connections. The difference is noticeably tighter, louder sound; bass especially, with more reserve power in the entire musical range.
6. TRY NEW THINGS:
You'll know when you've got really outstanding configurations, but nothing is lost in experimentation. Each car interior responds differently to identical equipment combinations, and only you, the listener, can decide what sounds best to you. GOOD LUCK!
911 Stereo component INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS: We have instructions for installation of amplifiers, speakers, and head units for the Porsche 911. Email with questions, comments, or requests:
(Porsche, Porsche 911, and 911 are all trademarks of Porsche Cars North America, no affiliation or endorsement is intended)