The process:

"The System" Installation

Door speaker and crossover installation on cars without factory component speakers:

(for cars with factory components/separates, see 964/993 door speaker installation)

On most 89-94 911's, (and a few earlier cars) before Nokia speakers made an ugly appearance, the factory has installed a crossover in this same location, only it's smaller and located a bit further forward than the below pictures. There is a "divider" on the map pocket itself that makes the small compartment for the crossover. You can either wedge the new crossover into this same compartment, without using any screws, just positioning it correctly as you reinstall the map pocket or mount the crossover as shown and drill out the rivet heads holding the divider into the map pocket. Larger crossovers simply will not fit at all into that compartment, such as those with a larger smoke colored plexiglas housing.

This picture shows where I've "extended" the factory speaker wire, and run it and the speaker wires to where the crossover will be mounted on the door panel. Notice that the wire will be in the "enclosed" portion of the map pocket, hidden from view but leaving the crossover tweeter attenuation switch accessible by simply opening the hinged armrest(s). You can use the 16 gauge Stinger Pro Series speaker wire, the bright green stuff. Don't worry, none of the "neon" speaker wire will show!

Here's another view of the crossovers and speakers mounted on the door before the map pocket is installed.  Nice and neat, everything is securely mounted, the map pocket will clear the crossover without a problem.

Amplifier Wiring Kit:

Some components may be slightly different for different models.  I had some extra time on my hands, so I actually did a bit of "prep work" on the power wire and ground wire in this wire kit, crimping ring terminals on and assembling the fuse holder (which needs to be close to the car's battery). For fishing the power wire, it's actually easier without the fuse holder installed, since the easier method is to fish the wire from inside the car into the trunk area, then over to the battery.  In this photo, I've placed the corresponding connectors within each loop of wire.  Notice which connectors go with the power wire, 12 gauge black speaker wire (for subs), and the 16 gauge green speaker wire for the door speakers.  The capacitors (bass blockers) and resistors are connected here, each assembly (one cap, one resistor) will be wire in "series" or "inline" with the positive terminal of the rear 4x6" speakers.  The capacitors will block frequencies below 200 Hz or so, and the resistors will attenuate the rear speakers just by about 3-4 dB so that they don't really try to compete with or possibly sound louder than the door speakers.  These caps and resistors work perfectly within "the system" and the Kenwood 4x6" 2-ways that I recommend.